Candy Cane Beets 5 Ways

When I was growing up, beets were beyond unappealing to me. They came from a can and had a slimy texture; I avoided eating them at all costs.

My family did grow beets one year in our garden, and they were cool looking, but I had a preconceived notion of what these roots tasted like, so I abstained. Fast forward to my early days of cooking, and I was taught how to boil, bake, salt roast, and even grill beets. A new world opened to me as I enjoyed sliced, salt-roasted beets with a balsamic drizzle and pickled golden beets and caviar…the possibilities were endless. Their natural sweetness and earthy tones pair well with cheese, vinegar, and smoked fish. I even started braising beet greens and tossing them with pasta. 

I fell in love with beets in 1997, when I started buying vegetables from Farmer Lee Jones and The Chef’s Garden in Ohio. I was able to see so many colors and sizes of beets, and understand the different flavor profiles and textures. I have had a beet dish on every menu I have created since then, my favorite one being a parfait of diced pickled red beets, golden beet gelatin, crème fraiche, and caviar.

For today’s lesson, I am focusing on candy cane beets, also known as Chioggia (pronounced kee-OH-gee-uh) beets. (They are called this because they’re from the town of Chioggia in northern Italy.) With their concentric rings of pink and white, these visually stunning beets are a feast for the eyes, making them a popular choice with chefs looking to add a splash of color to their dishes. They have varying degrees of color and come in a variety of sizes. These beets are a little milder than red ones but still have a natural sweetness.

Pickled Candy Cane Beets

You can buy a pickling spice or make your own with mixed spices (mustard seeds, coriander, fennel seeds, cloves) and lightly toast them before combining them with rice vinegar (three parts), water (one part), and sugar (half part). Add a couple of tablespoons of salt and bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and allow to rest for 10 minutes before straining. Prepare the beets by peeling and cutting them into desired-size pieces and laying them out in a pot or roasting pan. Boil the liquid and pour it over the beets, and cover with parchment paper and a lid; leave on the counter for one hour. Transfer to glass jars and store in the refrigerator.

Salt Roasted and Marinated

Trim the beet tops and bottoms, and scrub them well to remove any dirt on the exterior.

Cover a small roasting tray with kosher salt and place the beets on the salt. Place the tray in the oven for one hour at 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Remove the tray. When the beets are cool enough to handle, use a kitchen towel to remove the beet skins. Cut the beets into large pieces and place them on plates, and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt. Garnish with dollops of fresh ricotta and baby arugula.

Raw Shaved Beets Salad

Clean and peel the candy cane beets and soak them in water until ready to prepare. Thinly shave the beets on a mandolin along with some fennel heads and green apples. Combine the shaved fruits and vegetables, and toss them with lemon juice, olive oil, and seasoning. Serve this salad with grilled fish or meat to provide a nice texture and contrast to the protein.

Braised Beet Tops with Cavatelli

Remove the tops from the beets and strip the leaves from the stems. Wash them both well and drain before cutting the leaves into 1-inch strips and dicing the stems. Sauté them both in bacon fat and cook until tender (about 15 to 20 minutes), adding liquid if necessary. Toss some cooked cavatelli into the pot of greens and stems, and toss well. Add a little butter and grated Parmesan cheese, and serve.

Pink Beet Hummus

Place the candy cane beets in salted water, cook until tender, and then remove them from the pot. Remove the skins from the beets, and roughly chop and drain well. Combine the beets in a food processor with cooked chickpeas, tahini, and grated garlic, and process until smooth. While the processor is running, drizzle in olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Pulse the hummus until smooth. Serve with raw vegetables and crackers.